For years I thought vibram XS whatever was just fine but having worked a few projects with two pairs of vapors, one with vibrate and the other with stealth, I was surprised at how much better I felt on crap feet with the stealth. One thing I've noticed is the rubber that comes on them is not as good as Stealth. These are my go to shoes these days and I cycle through a few pairs. Wider than sportiva for sure, except for the solution. They fit me much better than either the Anasazi velcro or the Katana velcro. Also they were uncomfortable climbing vertical or slab since weighting the toes crushed them together too much.Ĭaughtinside wrote:Yeah, I would also call the Vapor V a medium to wide toe box. I think Scarpa would be more suited for the symmetrical foot shape with a longer 2nd toe.īasically what all this meant for my climbing, these Scarpa shoes were killer for overhung/roof climbing (best heel and snug technical fit) but felt sort of untrustworthy/sketch feeling on more vertical climbs were weighting the foot and heavy edging was involved. It feels unnatural compared to Sportiva for me.
The only thing I cant get over, and why I sold my Scarpas, is the power/edging spot seems more in between the big/2nd toe in a dead space area. I handled the new version of these in REI and they felt really good and much improved. They are a good shoes and I think they are like a Muira VS with a better heel and more balanced and integrated construction between upper and sole.
I know two climbing friends who wear the Solutions for aggressive climbing and Vapor V's for everything else. I actually sold Katana laces for being a little too narrow, cramped, and stiff in the toe box in my normal Sportiva size so I can see how they compare more similarly. This is comparing size 40 in Sportiva to Vapor V 40.5-old orange ones, Instinct VS 41, Boostic 40.5). For 5.10 sport I'd personally grab katanas every time.I like how low volume Scarpas are but I do find them uncomfortably narrow in the toe box compared to Sportiva shoes (Solution, Miura VS for example). The katanas will be a bit more comfortable and the miuras will be a bit more aggressive. You can get a similar performance out of both. I've owned miura lace too but found the katana to be much more comfortable. I sized the miuras a half size down from my katanas, but they fit equally well. I like them for bouldering, especially on granite. I got them because they were cheap, but they've grown on me. Katanas edge great and are a great all arounder. They also work well for me as a sport onsite shoe, since I'm on the wall for a lot longer trying to onsite and my tighter shoes (testarossas) start to hurt after like 15/20 minutes. Wouldn't call them a beginner shoe at all. I call it my "trad" shoe because they are great at jamming, slabs, and I can wear them for longer periods of time, but I've also climbed 5.12 sport in them. I've resoles one pair once and another twice. Regardless of any advice you may receive while using this forum, it is your personal responsibility to make sure that you are fully trained to handle the great deal of risk involved in climbing and related activities.
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